The Better Diamond

All About Diamond Shapes

Article By Admin

Feb 11, 2019

Through a craftsman’s hand, a raw diamond can be cut into different shapes. The ageless round brilliant cut is the most desired shape. However, in recent times, various other shapes have gained popularity. Each shape has its own unique attributes which appeals to individual taste, and at The Better Diamond, we will help you understand more about the various shapes.

Round Cut

The round cut, or brilliant cut diamond is an ageless cut. The first brilliant cut comprises 17 facets on the crown. Due to improvement in skill and equipment, the modern standard of brilliant cut would come to comprise 58 facets; 33 facets on the crown and 25 facets on the pavilion. The round cut diamond is the preferred shape of any diamond use to encrust engagement rings and other important pieces of jewelry. Together with an ideal proportion, a round cut diamond can maximize the internal light refraction, resulting in exceptional brilliance.

Princess Cut

As a relatively new shape, the princess cut diamond had quickly risen in popularity and is the second most popular shape for diamond, right after the round cut diamond. The face-up shape of the princess cut diamond is square. Comparing carat to carat, a princess cut stone is usually priced slightly lower as compared to a round cut diamond, due to the princess cut being able to retain about 80% of the raw diamond, while the round cut diamond retains about 50% of the rough diamond. Due to its popularity, certain gemological institutes such as the American Gem Society (AGS) and the European Gem Laboratories- USA (EGL-USA) had developed cut grading standards for the princess cut diamond.

Cushion Cut

The cushion cut diamond is another diamond shape with a square or rectangular outline when viewed from the top. As oppose to the princess cut, the cushion cut diamonds have soft rounded corners, just like a pillow. While, generally less brilliant than a round cut diamond, it tends to have more fire. It exudes romantic appeal and are best set in engagement rings with a ‘halo’ of melee diamonds.

Asscher Cut

The Asscher cut diamond was designed in 1902. It was the first cut to be patented and its patent was only lifted in the Second World War. It is a form of step-cut stones, with facets being rectilinear and parallel to the girdle of the stone. Asscher cut diamonds are similar to emerald cut diamonds. The main difference being that Asscher cut diamonds are square shaped while emerald cut diamonds are rectangular in outline. An Asscher cut diamond also would have its four corners cropped off. However, in setting onto a ring with four prongs, the cropped corners are usually not noticeable and would appear almost fully square. A step-cut diamond would lack in brilliance, but would bring out the clarity of the stone. Hence, when selecting step-cut diamonds like the emerald cut and the Asscher cut, it is important to look for one with better clarity.

Marquise Shape

The marquise cut diamond is a boat shape stone. It is also known as the navette diamond, which is the French translation for little boat. It features an elliptical shape with two pointed ends. While its popularity fell short of popular shapes like the princess, diamond or Asscher cut, the marquise diamond on an engagement ring gives a modern and simple beauty. In setting a marquise diamond, it is important to protect its corners, which are typically points of weakness in shapes with shape corners.

Oval Shape

The oval cut diamond is a very close approximation of the brilliant cut diamond. Similar to the brilliant cut, it has 58 facets. But instead, it has an elongated outline. Due to the shape, it would have a larger surface area as compared to a round cut diamond of the same carat weight, thus making it appear larger. Similar to other elongated shaped diamond like the marquise and the pear shaped diamond, it has a slimming effect on the finger when set with its long axis in line with the finger. An oval cut diamond is appealing in most ring designs; be it prong-type, halo, side-stones and bezel, and is sure to exude elegance.

Radiant Cut

The radiant cut diamond is a square or rectangular outline diamond shape with crop corners, similar to the Asscher or emerald cut diamond. However, it varies that it adopts the brilliant cut, where facets consist of triangular and kite shapes as compared to the step-cut, where facets are rectangular shaped. The radiant cut diamond closely resembles the oval cut diamond, with the radiant cut diamond rectangular outline being more defined.

Pear Shape

The pear diamond is also known as the teardrop diamond, owing its name aptly to the shape of a teardrop. It is a hybrid between the marquise cut and the round cut diamond. It consists of one pointed end with the other end rounded. Like similar fancy shape diamonds such as the marquise cut and hear shape diamonds, they tend to hold color better than a round cut diamond. Hence, it is recommended to select a pear diamond that is graded highly in the color grading scale, or a unique fancy color diamond. Conventionally, when wearing a pear shaped diamond, the pointed end would be set towards the fingertip. But in modern times, this convention does not hold much anymore. In bold designs, the pear diamonds are set horizontally, aligned in the direction of the band, to give a distinctive, contemporary look.

Emerald Cut

While similar to the Asscher cut, the clarity of an emerald cut diamond cannot be under-emphasized. It can either show the inclusions in the diamond, or epitomize the clarity of the stone. Hence, it is important to select a stone that is of reasonable quality when choosing an emerald cut, or Asscher cut diamond. As oppose to the Asscher cut diamond, the emerald cut emphasized its rectangular shape. When choosing an emerald cut diamond, be slightly bold on the length-to-width ratio. You would be surprise as to how exceptional it will look. In a ring setting, it can be set vertically or horizontally for different effect.

Heart Shape

A heart shape by itself is entrench in romantic symbolism. When a diamond is cut in the shape of the heart, it further epitomizes the romance of nuptial. An important aspect for quality of a heart shaped diamond is its symmetry. The left and right side of the heart side match, and any mismatch would be extremely obvious. When considering a heart shaped diamond, size is key. A stone has to be large enough, such that the outline of the shape can be definitively clear. As a benchmark, the diamond should be at least one-half carat in size. In setting, go for a simple solitaire design, or one with a halo that trace the outline of the feature stone. This would surely emphasize the unique diamond shape.

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